I don't understand model theory, but I think I've read enough about it that I can pretend to by parroting the language of model theorists. So instead of asking "how does model theory work," I'm going to state what I think I know and why it doesn't make sense, and then you can tell me why I'm wrong. I would also like to propose an alternative conception of model theory that resolves my objections, just in case I'm not as wrong as I think.
The Logical Argument
Let $\mathcal{T}$ be the theory consisting of one nullary function/constant $c$, one binary function $f$, and one binary relation $R$, with the following [non-logical] axioms:
$$\begin{align} a_1&\qquad\forall x.\neg R(x,x)\\ a_2&\qquad\forall x.\forall y.R(x,y)\implies\neg R(y,x)\\ a_3&\qquad\forall x.\forall y.\forall z.R(x,y)\land R(y,z)\implies R(x,z)\\ a_4&\qquad\forall x.\forall y.f(x,y)=f(y,x)\\ a_5&\qquad\forall x.f(x,c)=x\\ a_6&\qquad\forall x.\exists y.f(x,y)=c\\ a_7&\qquad\forall x.\forall y.\forall z.f(x,f(y,z))=f(f(x,y),z) \end{align}$$
Let $\mathcal{I}$ be the interpretation $\mathcal{I}(c)=``0"$, $\mathcal{I}(f)=``+"$, and $\mathcal{I}(R)=``<"$. Let $\mathcal{M}=(\mathbb{R},0,+<)$. Then, $\mathcal{M}\vDash \mathcal{T}$.
This means that for any formula $\varphi$, in the language of $\mathcal{T}$, if $\mathcal{T}\vdash\varphi$, then $\mathcal{M}\vDash\varphi$. In other words, the statements which are true of the [linear totally-ordered additive group of] real numbers is a theorem of $\mathcal{T}$ interpreted in the real numbers.
As it is usually stated, an interpretation gives semantic meaning to the expressions of a formal language. In this case, the interpretation treats $\mathcal{T}$ as a theory of real numbers.
Stop me here if I'm wrong.
Objection
Because "the real numbers" as presented above lack any internal structure (we have only the symbols $\mathbb{R}$, $0$, $<$, and $+$ to go off of, and these are no more meaningful than the symbols we started with), there is no way to determine the truth of a statement interpreted in $\mathcal{M}$. In order to determine the truth of a statement of the model, it would be necessary to build a theory $T_\mathcal{M}$ such that $T_\mathcal{M}\vdash\mathcal{I}(\varphi)$ iff $\mathcal{M}\vDash\varphi$. In this case, it would make more intuitive sense to treat $T_\mathcal{M}$ as a model of $\mathcal{T}$, and the interpretation as a homomorphism between $T_\mathcal{M}$ and $\mathcal{T}$ which preserves the relation $``\vdash"$.
The Philosophical Argument
The semantic theory of truth can be stated as follows:
For any valid statement $S$ of a formal language, "$S$" is true iff $S$.
e.g. "All swans are black" is true if and only if all swans are black.
Presumably, a statement is true in a given interpretation iff this rule holds- that is, for any statement $\varphi$, $\mathcal{M}\vDash\varphi$ iff the interpretation of $\varphi$ in $\mathcal{M}$.
Stop me here if I'm wrong.
Objection
For a statement whose referents are physical things, it is possible to produce a test which verifies that the statement is true independent of the sender and receiver (in other words, it is objectively true). In the case of "All swans are black," we can identify a particular configuration of particles as "swan," and a particular absorption spectrum as "black," then gather together all instances of "swan" in the world and stick them in a very large spectrometer. Both of these characteristics - "swan" and "black" - can be verified by measurement independently of any particular observer.
This is not the case for statements about hypothetical objects. There is no thing that we can point to and say "that is a real number." We cannot verify a statement about the real numbers (without first building a theory of real numbers) any more than we can assert that "all magic is octarine." In the best case, a statement "$S$" is true of the real numbers iff the consensus of mathematical literature says as much. In the worst case, "$S$" is an opinion.
This goes along with that age old question of whether or not mathematical truths would remain true in the absence of humans; based on the above it is very clear that they would not.
If the truth of a mathematical statement were instead considered in terms of the system [up to isomorphism] which produces that statement, then it would be possible to objectively "measure" mathematical truth through any physical implementation of that system (most likely a machine of some kind).
True in every Interpretation
As it is usually stated, a formula is valid iff it is true in every interpretation. Without placing restrictions on what an interpretation can be, it is clear that no formula is valid - just interpret a sentence in a nonsense manner and the result is not true. For example, $\varphi\lor\neg\varphi$ is not valid because I can declare a value "$C$" such that $C\land\neg C$. Because of this, I instead take "true in every interpretation" to mean "derivable from [classical] FOL alone." This way, the only valid formulas are theorems of FOL which are preserved in all first-order theories, courtesy of the logic itself. This amounts to "protecting" the logic of first-order theories against interpretation. This could probably be further clarified by introducing some form of type system to FOL (possibly derived from the grammar).
The Proposed Alternative
A first-order theory is a pair $(T,\vdash_T)$ such that [insert your choice of logical axioms and/or inference rules here]. An interpretation is a homomorphism between theories - i.e. if $\mathcal{U}=(U,\vdash_U)$ and $\mathcal{V}=(V,\vdash_V)$ are theories, and $\mathcal{I}:\mathcal{U}\to\mathcal{V}$ is an interpretation, then for any $\Sigma\subseteq U$ and $\varphi\in U$, $\Sigma\vdash_U\varphi$ iff $\mathcal{I}(\Sigma)\vdash_V\mathcal{I}(\varphi)$. We write $\mathcal{V}\vDash\mathcal{U}$ and say that $\mathcal{V}$ is a model of $\mathcal{U}$ to indicate that there is an interpretation from $\mathcal{U}$ to $\mathcal{V}$.
Thus, in the original example, $\mathcal{M}\vDash\varphi$ would follow from any proof that $\mathcal{I}$ is an interpretation or $T_\mathcal{M}\vdash\mathcal{I}(\varphi)$ (the latter being implied by the former).
A formula $\varphi$ is true in every interpretation, and we write $\vDash\varphi$ iff $\varphi$ is a formula of FOL [up to isomorphism]. This is because FOL is a subtheory of every first-order theory [up to isomorphism].
There is one possible benefit to this that doesn't appear in the more traditional explanation of models: it should be possible to construct interpretations between completely different logics/languages. This is probably extraordinarily difficult, but the possibility of building, say, a modal theory from FOL is quite exciting.
Response to Alex Kruckman
That is, the interpretations of the symbols in the language are not merely other symbols: they're honest functions and relations which we can reason about using ordinary (set-theoretic) mathematics.
Does this mean that model-theory is implicitly typed? Certainly we need to have at least two types ("string" and "object") for this to make sense?
However, in many cases we can easily determine the truth of a statement interpreted in $\mathcal{M}$... this follows from the fact that R is a field... At the end of the day, the proof comes down to thinking about Dedekind cuts or Cauchy sequences and proving things about them in ordinary (set-theoretic) mathematics.
There's a point to made here that the set itself cannot be identified as "the real numbers," because set theory alone cannot tell the difference between "the field $\mathbb{R}$" and an arbitrary structure with the same cardinality. In order to get to the point where we can talk about real numbers, we have to build the theory of real numbers (or the theory of [totally-ordered, etc.] fields, of which $\Bbb{R}$ is the unique [up to isomorphism] example of cardinality $2^{\aleph_0}$). Implicitly, this is what we are doing when we introduce new concepts like "Dedekind cut," and "sequence" to the extant set-theoretic vocabulary.
Proving $\forall r.\exists q.q+q=r$ means building the language, creating the inference rules, and stating the axioms of $\mathbb{R}$ - without this, $\mathbb{R}$ is no more "the set of real numbers" than $2^{\aleph_0}$ is the "the set of real numbers."
This is where the idea of "homomorphisms between theories" came from. If we're going to put in all the work to build a theory so that we can define "the real numbers," why not just start with that theory. Besides, since "the set itself" does not actually exist (as explained in "The Philosophical Argument"), we can only really talk about the theory anyway.
On a side note, I'm not sure that I can assume set theory since different set theories are not generally bi-interpretable and we can still have models of the same theory in different set theories. It's probably possible as well to use a non-set-theoretic (even non-first-order) formal system to create a model. I think I've seen something like this happen in philosophical uses of model theory, where the objects of discussion are not considered in a set-theoretic (or even mathematical light).
So regardless of whether $\mathcal{M}\vDash\varphi$ is true or not, we have that $\mathcal{M}\vDash\varphi\lor\neg\varphi$. So $\varphi\lor\neg\varphi$ is valid (true in every structure).
This is what I meant by "protecting the logic against interpretation." Suppose that $T$ is a propositional theory. We can interpret an object $\varphi$ of $T$ in some non-classical logic so that it is indeterminate, in which case $\varphi\lor\neg\varphi$ will not hold. This is not the case if we insist that the logical symbols of the theory must be preserved under interpretation (again, typing helps here).
Clarification:
Noah Schweber writes in a comment:
...you seem to be mixing up "true in every mode in the specific sense of first-order logic" with "true in every possible logical system." These are absolutely not the same, and the former is quite precise and limited
While I trust that this is correct, the explanations that I am familiar with state only that an interpretation "assigns a meaning to the symbols of a formal theory," usually without qualifying the scope of "meaning." Taking this at face value, any assignment is fair game.
That being said, without some form of typing there is little to distinguish the logical from non-logical components of a theory. If the definition of "interpretation" is such that an interpretation always preserves the meaning of logical symbols, then this ought to be stated rather than assumed.