(Posting a second answer for clarity because this relates to a different part of my question.)
Inspired by Henning Makholm's answer, I can prove the following statement which does not make any reference to a specific model of computability like Turing machines:
Let $\varphi_e$ be a standard enumeration of partial computable functions $\mathbb{N}^k\rightharpoonup\mathbb{N}$: the crucial fact in “standard” is that the s-m-n theorem holds with primitive recursive substitution function, i.e., there exists $s$ primitive recursive such that $\varphi_e(m,n) = \varphi_{s(e,m)}(n)$.
Let $h\colon\mathbb{N}\to\mathbb{N}$ be defined by $h(n) := \max\{\varphi_e(e) : 0\leq e\leq n \land \varphi_e(e)\downarrow\}$. (It is fairly obvious that $h$ satisfies (B).)
To be proven: In fact, $h$ satisfies (A), i.e., if $f\colon\mathbb{N}\to\mathbb{N}$ is computable then there exists $N$ such that $h(n) \geq f(n)$ for $n\geq N$.
Proof: Let $\gamma\colon\mathbb{N}\to\mathbb{N}$ be the diagonal Ackermann function. (What we need is that $\gamma$ is computable, increasing, and eventually dominates all primitive recursive functions, i.e. satisfies the analogue of (A) for primitive recursive $f$.)
Let $f\colon\mathbb{N}\to\mathbb{N}$ be any computable function. We want to show that $h(n) \geq f(n)$ for all $n$ sufficiently large. We define $g(k, j) := \max\{f(i) : 0\leq i\leq \gamma(k)\}$ (the variable $j$ is ignored). Let $p$ be an index for $g$, i.e., $g = \varphi_p$.
Now we have $\varphi_{s(p,k)}(j) = \varphi_p(k,j) = g(k,j) = \max\{f(i) : 0\leq i\leq \gamma(k)\}$ (again, $j$ is ignored). So if $n \geq s(p,k)$ and $i \leq \gamma(k)$ then $h(n) \geq f(i)$. In particular, if $s(p,k) \leq n \leq \gamma(k)$ then $h(n) \geq f(n)$.
But since $s(p,k+1)$ is a primitive recursion function of $k$, there exists $k_0$ such that if $k \geq k_0$, we have $\gamma(k) \geq s(p,k+1)$. Then if $n \geq s(p,k_0)$, there clearly exists $k$ such that $s(p,k) \leq n \leq \gamma(k)$, which implies $h(n) \geq f(n)$ as just explained. This proves that $h$ eventually dominates $f$. QED
Note that the proof works verbatim if we define $h$ by $h(n) := \max\{\varphi_e(0) : 0\leq e\leq n \land \varphi_e(0)\downarrow\}$ (the argument to $\varphi_e$ is only there because it is sometimes disturbing to consider and enumerate partial computable functions of $0$ arguments).
Applying this to Turing machines, it says that the function $h$ which maps $n$ to the maximal possible output of those among the $n$ first Turing machines which halt (for any “reasonable” numbering), eventually dominates any computable function. Since the maximal possible halting output of the $n$ first Turing machines is certainly at most equal to the maximal possible halting output of the at-most-$n$-state Turing machines, we recover Radó's result on the standard busy beaver function. But what I find interesting about this approach is that if makes it clear that we need to assume very little on the numbering: for any programming language in which composition is primitive recursive (a very weak requirement), the maximal possible halting output of the $n$ first programs will eventually dominate any computable function.
(How was I inspired by Henning Makholm's answer? Basically he uses $\gamma(k) = 2^k$ in saying “we can construct the number $2^k$ in $O(k)$ states”, something which is sufficient for the case of Turing machines and if we just count their number of states: it is this key “bootstrap” argument that I failed to understand in Radó's proof and that I sought to make explicit above.)